On the Greener Side PDF E-mail
by Barbara Sue Schubert “We have a rather large and old (30+ years) camellia in our front yard that suffered some root damage about four years ago and it is growing thinner with each passing year. As we move into early fall I’m concerned that I will lose this wonderful plant altogether come next spring.  Can you recommend a regimen to try to coax this plant back from the brink of disaster?”
John, Ashland, Kentucky

I’m thinking that if your camellia has been in the same spot all those 30+ years it may be more than just the repercussions from the root damage. Your front yard environment may have changed, as well as the soil.  Camellias grow best in year-round, semi-shaded areas, so if the amount of sun that plant now gets has changed, that isn’t helping it.  You may want to consider taking a good hard look at the soil around the camellia too.  It could very well be worn out.  Camellias do not tolerate poorly drained soils.  A gradual decline in plant vitality is usually associated with root system decline due largely to the soil or planting site.

“I am building a greenhouse and progress is moving along well.  Needless to say a person has a million questions running through their head while building it. One question that comes to mind is how much actual light do I need to make sure my greenhouse is getting enough?”

Gordon, New Kensington, Pennsylvania

Unfortunately, nothing will take the place of good old Mother Nature’s sunlight, but due to the shorter days of winter, start thinking about the supplemental lighting that you’re going to need.  Greenhouses need at least six hours of sunlight a day, so if it gets less than that you’re going to need some additional lighting options. It won’t take long for you to figure this out if your plants are not growing as fast as they should and are becoming leggy and spindly.  You’ll also notice they will be bending towards any light source as well.


You’ll need to get on the internet or visit a hardware or building supply store and do some research on lighting options, although the place where you bought your greenhouse or building supplies should be a great help in pointing you in the right direction as well. Plants use mostly the red and blue spectrums of visible light. Incandescent bulbs won’t do it as they just don’t supply enough light. The best way to get that full spectrum of light is to use one ‘cool white’ and one ‘daylight or warm white’ fluorescent bulb. You can also buy special grow lights that will supply you with the full spectrum (many companies advertising in Garden & Greenhouse have these available).


Light is measured in foot-candles, or lumens depending on how you’re measuring it. If you are looking at the light source itself it’s measured in lumens. If you’re looking at the measurement of the plant itself, it’s measured in foot-candles.

  • Here are some average light requirements:
  • Low light houseplants - 100-200 foot-candles
  • Most seedlings and flowering bulbs - 750 foot-candles,
  • Orchids, roses, succulents - 1,500 foot-candles,
  • Leafy vegetables - 2,800 foot-candles,
  • Fruits and vegetables - 5,000 foot candles,

Light meters can be purchased from a greenhouse supply store to help you determine if you are getting enough light for your greenhouse.

“An “Old Timer” told me to pour pickle juice around my roses because it was good for them. Should I do that or is that just idle talk around the woodstove?”

Greg and Kim, Shakopee, Minnesota

You have to remember that those “Old Timers” had some great ideas based on what was available to them back then – so those remedies were probably relevant at the time. However, today you’d probably be better off saving that pickle juice for your Bloody Mary’s instead!  Granted, pickle juice would be acidic and would lower the pH level to some degree, but sulfur would be a better choice.  If you want a more educated account of your soils I’d recommend having it tested so you know exactly what you’re up against. You can also contact Garden & Greenhouse columnist Ann Hooper at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it Ann is a rosarian and can offer a lot expertise.

“Which glass would you use for an indoor garden room or swimming pool room? What glass would you use for the ceilings or walls?”

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The best kind of glass is going to be something that will transmit light well, yet not transmit thermal infrared, the wavelengths at which the solar energy absorbed in the room is reemitted.

This particular glass will have a high R-value, and is most affective particularly if the glass is tempered.  Other options are polycarbonate and polyethylene films, but there are different thicknesses and R factors to consider.  Most importantly, depending upon what you want the glass to accomplish and whether you use it in an indoor garden room or indoor swimming pool room is going to make a big difference as well –heating water and burning plant leaves are on opposite ends of the spectrum, so this needs to be a well thought out endeavor. Specialty building supply stores and glass and window companies in your area will be able to assist you with your decision and choices in the right glass for the right area. GG 

 


Barbara Sue Schubert is a human resource professional, free-lance writer and a garden and plant enthusiast from southern Wisconsin.  “To me, HR and gardening have a lot in common, both feed my family!  Writing, on the other hand, feeds my soul.”

 
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