by Amy Ambrosius

One of the Most Misunderstood Vegetables of All Time

One of the most misunderstood vegetables of all time, Brussels Sprouts are great for cold weather gardening and bring elegance to the table. Like many other Brassicas, Brussels Sprouts develop a sweeter, more nuanced flavor after a bit of frost. Found nowhere in the wild, but cultivated since ancient Rome, Brussels Sprouts got their name from the region that really put them on the map- the south part of the Netherlands.

Their tiny heads develop along an upright stalk, making them space-efficient plants. They mature up the stalk, meaning lower sprouts will be ready to harvest first. Heat makes the plants produce loose heads with an “off” taste. Pinching or removing the growing point of the stalk will hurry the first harvest, but ultimately decrease the yield for that plant- but may be a good practice for gardeners whose plants could be subjected to freezes in the teens, which might kill the plants altogether. They are a slower growing crop, with maturity dates ranging from 78 days all the way up to 150 days. Tasty Nuggets are one appealingly named variety on the lower end. Falstaff is a red sprout variety that retains a blue-purple color when cooked and is also used as an ornamental crop, and Rubine is a late maturing red sprout variety with larger heads.

Good soil, proper timing with planting and good pest control practices are necessary for success with any vegetable, but very important with Brussels Sprouts because they can be more particular than most. They also require lots of moisture. Seeds will germinate in soil as cool as 40 F, but should be started under protected conditions and transplanted between 90-100 days before that first frost. Plantings can be staggered in milder climates, for production throughout the winter, and in the coldest climates, Brussels Sprouts can be grown in the greenhouse or framed and covered. Harvest sprouts when they are 1-2 inches in diameter, and if harvesting for home cooking, try to select sprouts of similar size, as these will have a more uniform cooking time. Harvest before the leaves start to yellow, and harvest the tender, young leaves too because they can be prepared much like collard or other greens. Some gardeners opine that leaf removal encourages sprout yield, and the tasty leaves may make it hard to argue with them.

As with most controversial vegetables, the reason most people dislike Brussels Sprouts is often due to the fact that many cooks mistreat the delicate little heads by abusive overcooking. This turns them limp and an unappealing color, and releases the sulfur compounds that cause them to taste bitter. Steam or boil until they turn a brighter green and they'll reward with a slightly sweet and nutty flavor. Brussels Sprouts can be cooked whole, but cutting them in half lengthwise or quartering them allows them to absorb any sauces with which they may be served. They can also be shredded, cut across the heads and sauteed gently or added to a stir fry in place of cabbage, however, they do not require the cooking time that cabbage or kale needs. Roasting also highlights the sprouts' flavor and dresses up other roasted cold-weather vegetables; they only need to be tossed with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt and pepper as desired, then roasted between 350 and 400 degrees until gently browned and tender.

A final preparation layers the sweetness of caramelized Brussels Sprouts with the silky richness of a cream sauce for a dish that is elegant for a formal dinner, and comforting for a table set for one on a chilly night.

Brussels Sprouts Divine

Serves 4 as a side dish

2 lbs Brussels Sprouts

3 TBS Butter

1 TBS Olive Oil

1 C Broth (Chicken and Vegetable both work fine)

Dash of Sherry

1 Recipe Bearnaise Sauce (it's okay to cheat and use a packet)

Wash Brussels Sprouts, cut in half lengthwise (from the stem to the top of the head), drain well. In a sauté pan, melt butter with olive oil over medium heat. Place Brussels Sprouts cut side down in pan, sauté until hints of brown begin to show - this is the caramelization taking place. Once nicely browned, deglaze pan with a generous dash of Sherry, loosening any bits in the pan. Add broth and cover, cooking until tender to a fork. While the sprouts sauté, prepare Bearnaise sauce and serve sprouts with a good dribble of it. To maximize the sauce, plate sprouts cut side up to allow the sauce to mingle in the layers of leaves.