On the Greener Side PDF E-mail
by Barbara Sue Schubert “I am a recent subscriber to your magazine, and I read with interest the article on organic pest control in the greenhouse. I have had a problem for some time with mealybugs, especially on my citrus plants and asclepiads, but the only recommended approach was neem oil. I nearly killed one of my crassulas when it got hit by the backspray from neem — I didn’t even thoroughly spray the plant, it just happened to be unfortunate enough to be directly behind the plant I was trying to treat. So I know some plants are highly sensitive to neem. I’ve found the only thing that seems to keep them under control is simply jetting them off with a high-pressure setting on my watering hose, but some smaller plants won’t tolerate that approach. Is there anything you can suggest — even a beneficial insect I could release in my greenhouse — that might work for mealybugs?”
Gordon Bonnet, Trumansburg, NY

The species of ladybug, Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, is known to feed on all stages of the mealybug. This species is already established in Florida and can be purchased commercially. These ladybugs will provide some suppression of high pest populations, but they really don’t do that great of a job on controlling lower populations because they require a large number of mealybugs to survive. With succulents like you have, those mealybugs can easily escape your pest control endeavors because they have lots of crevices to hide in.  

Another idea is to consider using an insecticidal soap in a spray bottle, as opposed to the high-pressure watering method. It’s a little milder approach to neem oil but may be a safer bet for any chance of an overspray. You’ll also probably be able to get to those hidden spots better on your plants where the mealybug may be hiding. And of course, it’s also safe for the plant and the environment. The only real disadvantage is that it takes a little longer and it has no residual effects, so you’ll have to spray a couple of times until you eradicate them and then probably keep on top of it for awhile.

 

“I’m planning on doing some landscaping next spring, which includes introducing some new ornamentals and trees to my property. Do I need to be too particular about what kind of soil I plant trees in? I’ve read that they just sort of adapt to their environments. Do certain trees take special soil mixtures?”

Judy and Kaye, Itasca, IL

Well, yes and no. If you’re buying trees from a nursery always consult the resident horticulturalist for their recommendation. That not only makes good sense, but it also gives you piece of mind. (When I buy anything from a nursery, I milk them for information to the fullest while I have their undivided attention!) Basically, most trees do well in sandy loam or a good clay loam. Heavy clay, on the other hand, is bad news.

 

“I got so excited buying vegetable seeds for the garden this spring and summer that I ended up with a lot left over. Can I store them and use them next year?”

Andre, Tolland, CT

Sure. Just store them in a cool, dry place over the winter. Just to be on the safe side, sow leftover seed just a little thicker than you would sow new seed to ensure a good crop.

 

“What would you suggest for perennials that can thrive and withstand a hot, sun-baked berm surrounded by asphalt? My landscaping is terrific, but I can’t find plants that can take the pressure!”

Jan and Bill, Knob Creek, KY

Actually, you have more choices than you think. If the area has some good soil, which berms usually have, and your hose is relatively accessible, your options expand even further. In early spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils, iris and grape hyacinths are a nice way to kick things off. The bulbs go dormant after they bloom and they’re perfectly happy to spend the rest of the summer in a hot, dry environment. Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis), which is a tall, bushy plant that grows three to four feet high and wide, boasts spikes of indigo-blue flowers and has deep roots that will carry it through dry spells. Walker’s low catmint (Nepeta faassenii) sports a small, avender-blue flower from spring through fall and grows about ten inches tall and spreads to cover bare ground. Coneflowes (Echinace purpurea) are also a good choice as they weave in and out of those plants I jut mentioned from about July to early September. And for fall, sedums will virtually grow anywhere and come in purple and red and spread easily Their lush, fleshy leaves while they’re growing are nice front drops to the coneflowers. GG

 


Do You Have a Question about What’s going on in your garden or greenhouse?  Submit your question for Barbara Sue (include your city and state) by contacting us at: phone(563) 557-7571, fax (563) 557-7641 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it '; document.write( '' ); document.write( addy_text11227 ); document.write( '<\/a>' ); //-->\n This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it or write us at Garden and Greenhouse, 6170 Forest Hills Drive, Dubuque, IA 52002. Barbara Sue will do her best to publish your question with an answer in the next available issue.

Barbara Sue Schubert is a human resource professional, free-lance writer and a garden and plant enthusiast from southern Wisconsin.  “To me, HR and gardening have a lot in common, both feed my family!  Writing, on the other hand, feeds my soul.”

 
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